What do you know about the muumuu? Maybe not a great deal, certainly if you are based in the UK like me you are probably more familiar with the similarly shaped caftan. When we think of Hawaiian vintage pieces here it is probably the traditional aloha shirt which springs to mind rather than the its traditional female counterpart the muumuu. I first became interested in vintage Hawaiian pieces after falling in love with a gorgeous playsuit on a visit to the US long before I started Bristol Betty Vintage and am always drawn to their joyful prints. The muumuu is so versatile, easy to wear and cool and comfortable and well those colours and tropical prints are incredible so in homage I wanted to find out a little bit more about them….
The story of the muumuu begins with the arrival of Christian missionaries in Hawaii in 1820. They wished to influence the way the local women dressed and wanted them to adopt a more modest look like their own *Mother Hubbard dress. So, using this dress as a starting point a two-piece outfit was created consisting of a floor-length, loose high necked underdress known as a holoku and an outer chemise-style dress called a mu’umu’u, which when literally translated means cut off, so called because this part of the outfit did not have a yoke.
As you can imagine, the tropical Hawaiian climate proved too hot for double layered clothing like this and as a result, Hawaiian women adopted the cooler, more comfortable muumuu for everyday wear, reserving the holoku for formal occasions. Made from beautiful, vibrant fabrics, these dresses quickly became a staple of Hawaiian culture.
It was in the 20th Century when the muumuu first gained popularity on the American mainland, mainly due to the post war tourism boom which brought many Americans to Hawaii’s tropical shores. The muumuu became the perfect souvenir to take home, an exotic reminder of happy holidays.
During the 1960s and 1970s renowned designers like Halston, Yves Saint Laurent, and Christian Dior started to incorporate muumuus and their Middle Eastern cousins, caftans, into their fashion collections. The muumuu’s relaxed fit and vibrant prints resonated with the era's fashion-forward individuals who sought to express their individuality and break away from conventional restrictive dress.
During the later part of the century, the muumuu became more mainstream and evolved to suit American tastes with more embellishments added to what was once a very simple dress
A beautiful vintage muumuu made for US brand Sears
Today, the dress shape of the muumuu is still very popular, especially in the warmer months, as it is comfortable to wear, offers endless styling opportunities and suits different body shapes. You can find these styles everywhere. However, I would encourage you to seek out those vintage muumuus for their vibrant traditional prints based on the flora of Hawaii’s lush tropical landscape and generally superior fabric.
Beyond its aesthetic appeal, the muumuu, like the aloha shirt, embodies the beautiful spirit of aloha, representing the warmth and hospitality of these beautiful islands. It is so much more than just a Summer dress.
* a loose fitting Victorian high necked and long sleeved gown often worn to do housework.
2 comments
Thanks Karen. I’m really glad you enjoyed it.
Really interesting read!